I’ve been somewhat remiss in posting anything about my live-aboard trip through the Similans over the new year. Well, better late than never.

The important work of updating the site’s guide to the Similans is already done, so this will just be an overview of the trip.

This was a seven day, six night cruise aboard the MV Nautica. We departed from the pier in Taplamu up in Phang Nga, which is much better than making the long slog from Chalong on Phuket. We left in the late afternoon and were anchored in Honeymoon Bay in time for dinner.

We followed the typical route up through the Similans to Koh Bon, Koh Tachai and on to Richelieu Rock. I didn’t get to the rock on my first trip to the Similans. It was too early in the year and conditions were too rough. This time, at the peak of the high season, there was no problem getting there, and spending the day there. Of course, with such good conditions, nobody else had any trouble getting there either. There were at least five other dive boats there at the same time. However, the thing about Richelieu is that it’s a really big dive site. Even with five dive boats on the site, you won’t necessarily have to contend with a lot of other divers in the water at the same time on the same side of the rock.

While Richelieu Rock is definitely the star attraction of the Similans, I did have a few other favorites: Koh Bon pinnacle was definitely one of the best sites. You have to dive it at slack tide, as there’s no mooring line and it’s not that big of a site. I also like Elephant Rock. But, the real standout for me was the Boonsong Wreck. A lot of dive guides downplay it, and it’s true that, as wrecks go, it’s not that interesting. However, the wreck is home to amazing array of sea life, including an incredible number of harlequin morays and other distinctive critters. I’m definitely considering returning to Khao Lak again for a few days, just to dive the Boonsong a few more times.

Just got off the boat from a trip through Thailand’s Similan Islands. It was a fantastic week of diving, but that’s pretty much a given with the Similans. I’ll be posting more details and updating the site over the next few weeks, but here’s one of my favourite videos I captured during the trip.

I’m not sure if this moray is ticklish, or if the shrimps are pinching it, but it’s certainly tolerating the services of these two cleaners. One brave crustacean even goes into the eel’s mouth!

The Sea Spirit was my home for a seven day dive cruise through the Maldives. I can easily say that it was the best dive boat I’ve been on. The 28 meter ship was custom built by Maldives Scuba Tours for use in the Maldives. All the passenger cabins are on the lower deck. There are two doubles and four twin cabins, although my ‘twin’ cabin could have held a family of three if needed. The cabins were roomy by dive boat standards, with enough storage space. Bathrooms had hot showers as well as drinkable water.

On the main deck was a large enclosed, but not air conditioned, salon where dive briefings were held. Breakfast was served here in the mornings, as was lunch if the weather was bad, which fortunately only happened once or twice during our week-long voyage. The salon had several cozy ‘booths’ which were comfortable places to laze about between dives, while the tables made good workstations for those with computers. There was a ‘charging station’ for cameras, laptops and computers, as well as a large flat screen television. Like most live-aboard boats, there was complementary soft drinks, water, tea and coffee.

Forward of the salon was a covered dining area where we had lunch and dinner. Meals were definitely a high point of this trip. The Sri-Lankan chef – the only non-Maldivian member of the crew aside from the dive guide – was a master of Asian, Indian and European cuisine. We had some amazing curries – including beet root, which I’ve never heard of – as well as some well prepared European dishes. The cruise director took pains to keep abreast of any important events, such as one diver’s birthday, or even my 50th dive, and each event was celebrated at dinner that day.

The top deck was a large space completely dedicated to sun worshipers, although there was a covered area for those of us that didn’t want to get too much sun.

Some Redfin Butterflyfish on the reefs of the Maldives

The Dive Boat

Diving was off a separate smaller boat, the Niumath. The 18 meter boat was built in the style of a traditional “Dohney” used around the Maldives. The Niumath held all our dive gear and had air compressors and nitrogen to refill the tanks between dives. There were four exits for giant-stride entries, so all the divers could get into the water quickly. Note that due to currents, it’s common in the Maldives for divers to be instructed to submerge immediately on entry (in other words, entering the water with an empty BCD), rather than doing a surface check. Re-entry to the boat after a dive was up a ladder dropped from the bow. A firmly attached rope gave other divers something to hold on to while waiting to board. The two crew members handled your fins and helped you back into the boat if needed. The only minor negative point about the whole setup was the lack of fresh water on the dive boat. You had to wait to get back to the Sea Spirit to get anything to drink, shower, or even rinse off your camera and other gear.

Dive Gear Rental

The Sea Spirit has rental gear available, for a fee. Be sure to let them know ahead of time what you need so they can arrange it.

Sea Spirit Arrival and Departures

The Sea Spirit departs from Male and returns there at the end of each cruise. The boat will pick you up at the airport, or alternatively from the main pier in Male town, as arranged with the cruise director.

Quick Summary

Pluses: Comfortable rooms and common areas; excellent food; and friendly crew.

Minus: No fresh water on the dive boat – for showers or drinking or rinsing.

Bookings may be made through Maldives Scuba Tours.