The sites are being closed due to coral bleaching, which of course has almost nothing to do with divers and everything to do with global warming, but with a coral loss estimated at around 90%, it was felt that something had to be done to reduce the stress on the coral. The sites will be closed for the remainder of this season, which in the Andaman runs to the end of April, when most dive operations cease anyway for the monsoon. The sites will be re-evaluated before the beginning of the next season in October.

For full details, the Bangkok Post has a good map of all the closed sites.

The important work of updating the site’s guide to the Similans is already done, so this will just be an overview of the trip.

This was a seven day, six night cruise aboard the MV Nautica. We departed from the pier in Taplamu up in Phang Nga, which is much better than making the long slog from Chalong on Phuket. We left in the late afternoon and were anchored in Honeymoon Bay in time for dinner.

We followed the typical route up through the Similans to Koh Bon, Koh Tachai and on to Richelieu Rock. I didn’t get to the rock on my first trip to the Similans. It was too early in the year and conditions were too rough. This time, at the peak of the high season, there was no problem getting there, and spending the day there. Of course, with such good conditions, nobody else had any trouble getting there either. There were at least five other dive boats there at the same time. However, the thing about Richelieu is that it’s a really big dive site. Even with five dive boats on the site, you won’t necessarily have to contend with a lot of other divers in the water at the same time on the same side of the rock.

While Richelieu Rock is definitely the star attraction of the Similans, I did have a few other favorites: Koh Bon pinnacle was definitely one of the best sites. You have to dive it at slack tide, as there’s no mooring line and it’s not that big of a site. I also like Elephant Rock. But, the real standout for me was the Boonsong Wreck. A lot of dive guides downplay it, and it’s true that, as wrecks go, it’s not that interesting. However, the wreck is home to amazing array of sea life, including an incredible number of harlequin morays and other distinctive critters. I’m definitely considering returning to Khao Lak again for a few days, just to dive the Boonsong a few more times.

Wicked is one of the oldest dive operators in Khao Lak. I noted that there seem to be a lot of dive shops here – too many I think – but many of the shops are merely booking agents for the various live-aboard boats. Wicked operates their own boat, with a full schedule of tours to the Similans. They can also offer day trips to some of the closer dive sites, such as the Boonsung wreck, which is within sight of the shore here.

My conversation with Paul convinces me that everything I’ve heard about Wicked is true: They’re a class act, that really looks after their customers, whether they’re just learning, or experienced divers looking for a good boat with good guides who will look after them. Definitely keep them in mind if you’re visiting the Phuket or Phang Nga area.

I’m not sure if this moray is ticklish, or if the shrimps are pinching it, but it’s certainly tolerating the services of these two cleaners. One brave crustacean even goes into the eel’s mouth!

A couple of shrimps clean a moray eel.

About the trip: The boat for this trip was the Colona VI, from the Colona Group. The Colona was comfortable enough, with twin bunk rooms that had en-suite bathrooms. The crew and the dive masters were excellent, which makes the Colona an excellent value for money. The boat makes regular trips to the Similans in season. See their web site for the schedule.

The currents are running in a different direction this morning, so even though we dive in at about the same spot, we see a completely different side of the reef. The thermoclines are still there, and in addition to the other fish I saw yesterday, I see my first blue-spotted ray skirting the edge of a patch of staghorn coral.

From Koh Bon we head back to Similan 8 for another drive on Three Trees. In addition to the fish I saw on the first dive here, this time I spot a large, lone crown of thorns starfish. It’s quite a sight. The last dive of the day is another visit to East of Eden.

After breakfast we head off to Koh Bon for our second dive of the day. We go down on the west ridge. The currents are brisk, as are the thermoclines. I pass through several of these as we drift up and down over the boulders. They don’t affect visibility, which is excellent, they just make the dive a bit more “refreshing”. The actual temperature difference is not much – just a degree or two. Enough to feel, but it won’t give you the chills. We see many varieties of surgeonfish, as well as more Moorish idols and some sweetlips.

Next we head of to Koh Tachai. I decide to skip the Tachai Pinnacle, as I’m still not very good in strong currents, but we do have enough time in the day to dive Leopard Shark Reef on the north side of Koh Tachai. It’s near dusk, too late for the reef fish to be out and about, and too early for the night critters to be around. But the thick forests of staghorn coral are a fantastical sight.

But, by the time I can bring myself to get out of bed this morning, we’re anchored in a very calm bay, and it even looks like the sun will come out. My first dive of the day is East of Eden, off Similan Island 7. This is quite a sprawling site, but I manage to see a lot of it, including its most famous resident, “Emma” the moray eel. She lives under a large table coral that just out of the sandy bottom. We also see a number of clown triggerfish and parrotfish.

The second dive is on Three Trees, on the north side of Island 9. This particular site isn’t well mapped, but it’s between the better-known sites of Breakfast Bend and Rocky Point, and quite similar to both. Currents we rather strong, but we have the luxury of drifting and having the boat pick us up where-ever the tide takes us. I see my first turtle, as well as a lot of surgeonfish and some baracuda.

We move back to Island 8 to moor for the night, and make a night dive – my first – on Beacon Reef. I spot a few lobsters out and about, as well as some parrotfish sleeping in the nooks and crannies of the coral. Later, back on the boat, the lights attract a large school of squid.