The reef scenery at Bunaken – why most people want to learn to dive.

Before we get to the topic of where to learn to dive, it might be a good idea to first discuss whether or not this is really a good idea, for you. Learning to dive from any reputable dive shop will take four or five days, and involves a fair bit of reading, written tests and other activities that might be a little too much like being back in school. If you only have a two or three week holiday, do you really want to spend a good chunk of it leaning to dive? It all depends on you. Some people like learning new things while on vacation, others prefer to maximize their down-time in the sun. If the amount of time it takes to learn to dive is going to make a big dent in your plans, it might be better to learn at home before arriving in the region.

The other general factor in your decision regarding where to learn to dive, is when you’ll be doing it. Most of the major dive destinations in the region like to advertise that they can be enjoyed year round, but the truth is that there are times when conditions are not ideal. You want to learn to dive in the best weather, both to ensure you have an easy time, as well as to have an enjoyable experience that you’ll want to continue with. Therefore, I’ve highlighted below when the best times for each destination is.

Koh Tao, Thailand

Koh Tao is perhaps the most obvious choice. I’ve heard that Thailand accounts for something like 25% of all the Dive Master and Dive Instructor certifications in the world, and it seems that Koh Tao contributes a major proportion to that number. For people just learning to dive, this means there are lots of dive shops to choose from, and a wide range of accommodations as well as restaurants, bars and other services. The downside is that Koh Tao can be a little too popular. Some wags suggest that the only creatures you’ll see in the waters around the island are other divers. That may be a little too harsh, but I would rate the diving at the other two options as ‘better’ than what you’ll experience immediately around Koh Tao. There are some really great dive sites in the sea some distance from Koh Tao, but these are generally for experienced divers.

When to go: The season for Koh Tao is fairly long, which is one of the reasons for its popularity. The months to avoid are October to January.

Tioman Island, Malaysia

Tioman is my "dark horse" candidate for a good place to learn scuba diving. It is very popular as a weekend diving destination for people from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, with direct flights there from both cities. But it isn’t quite as popular as Koh Tao, and instead has a very relaxed atmosphere. Many of the dive resorts have their own "house reefs" where they take beginning divers, which makes things very easy by eliminating external issues like dealing with boats from the learning experience. Once you’ve got the basics down, there are a lot of easy and very enjoyable dives within a 10 to 20 minute boat ride. There’s a nice variety of sea life, such as turtles, sharks, squids and many kinds of fish, although not in great abundance. The downside to Tioman – which some might consider an upside – is that there aren’t a huge variety of restaurants or nightlife on offer. Depending on which resort you’re staying at, you may be stuck there for most of your stay.

When to go: Tioman is at its best from March to October.

Bunaken, Indonesia

If the time of year weren’t an issue, Bunaken would probably be my top choice for a destination to learn to dive. The tiny island just off the northern tip of Sulawesi in Indonesia has some of the best diving you can find, with a huge abundance of sea life on view. Conditions are generally calm, although currents can be strong on some sites. Your dive instructors will take you to the easier sites to start with. You’re almost assured to have experiences on your first few dive that will get you hooked on the sport. The downside, if there is one, is that most of the dive resorts around Bunaken are more or less self-contained. You won’t find much in the way of independent restaurants or night life outside of the resorts.

When to go: Bunaken is best from may to October, with the summer months of July and August being ideal.

The important work of updating the site’s guide to the Similans is already done, so this will just be an overview of the trip.

This was a seven day, six night cruise aboard the MV Nautica. We departed from the pier in Taplamu up in Phang Nga, which is much better than making the long slog from Chalong on Phuket. We left in the late afternoon and were anchored in Honeymoon Bay in time for dinner.

We followed the typical route up through the Similans to Koh Bon, Koh Tachai and on to Richelieu Rock. I didn’t get to the rock on my first trip to the Similans. It was too early in the year and conditions were too rough. This time, at the peak of the high season, there was no problem getting there, and spending the day there. Of course, with such good conditions, nobody else had any trouble getting there either. There were at least five other dive boats there at the same time. However, the thing about Richelieu is that it’s a really big dive site. Even with five dive boats on the site, you won’t necessarily have to contend with a lot of other divers in the water at the same time on the same side of the rock.

While Richelieu Rock is definitely the star attraction of the Similans, I did have a few other favorites: Koh Bon pinnacle was definitely one of the best sites. You have to dive it at slack tide, as there’s no mooring line and it’s not that big of a site. I also like Elephant Rock. But, the real standout for me was the Boonsong Wreck. A lot of dive guides downplay it, and it’s true that, as wrecks go, it’s not that interesting. However, the wreck is home to amazing array of sea life, including an incredible number of harlequin morays and other distinctive critters. I’m definitely considering returning to Khao Lak again for a few days, just to dive the Boonsong a few more times.

Wicked is one of the oldest dive operators in Khao Lak. I noted that there seem to be a lot of dive shops here – too many I think – but many of the shops are merely booking agents for the various live-aboard boats. Wicked operates their own boat, with a full schedule of tours to the Similans. They can also offer day trips to some of the closer dive sites, such as the Boonsung wreck, which is within sight of the shore here.

My conversation with Paul convinces me that everything I’ve heard about Wicked is true: They’re a class act, that really looks after their customers, whether they’re just learning, or experienced divers looking for a good boat with good guides who will look after them. Definitely keep them in mind if you’re visiting the Phuket or Phang Nga area.

I’m not sure if this moray is ticklish, or if the shrimps are pinching it, but it’s certainly tolerating the services of these two cleaners. One brave crustacean even goes into the eel’s mouth!

A couple of shrimps clean a moray eel.

About the trip: The boat for this trip was the Colona VI, from the Colona Group. The Colona was comfortable enough, with twin bunk rooms that had en-suite bathrooms. The crew and the dive masters were excellent, which makes the Colona an excellent value for money. The boat makes regular trips to the Similans in season. See their web site for the schedule.

The currents are running in a different direction this morning, so even though we dive in at about the same spot, we see a completely different side of the reef. The thermoclines are still there, and in addition to the other fish I saw yesterday, I see my first blue-spotted ray skirting the edge of a patch of staghorn coral.

From Koh Bon we head back to Similan 8 for another drive on Three Trees. In addition to the fish I saw on the first dive here, this time I spot a large, lone crown of thorns starfish. It’s quite a sight. The last dive of the day is another visit to East of Eden.

After breakfast we head off to Koh Bon for our second dive of the day. We go down on the west ridge. The currents are brisk, as are the thermoclines. I pass through several of these as we drift up and down over the boulders. They don’t affect visibility, which is excellent, they just make the dive a bit more “refreshing”. The actual temperature difference is not much – just a degree or two. Enough to feel, but it won’t give you the chills. We see many varieties of surgeonfish, as well as more Moorish idols and some sweetlips.

Next we head of to Koh Tachai. I decide to skip the Tachai Pinnacle, as I’m still not very good in strong currents, but we do have enough time in the day to dive Leopard Shark Reef on the north side of Koh Tachai. It’s near dusk, too late for the reef fish to be out and about, and too early for the night critters to be around. But the thick forests of staghorn coral are a fantastical sight.

But, by the time I can bring myself to get out of bed this morning, we’re anchored in a very calm bay, and it even looks like the sun will come out. My first dive of the day is East of Eden, off Similan Island 7. This is quite a sprawling site, but I manage to see a lot of it, including its most famous resident, “Emma” the moray eel. She lives under a large table coral that just out of the sandy bottom. We also see a number of clown triggerfish and parrotfish.

The second dive is on Three Trees, on the north side of Island 9. This particular site isn’t well mapped, but it’s between the better-known sites of Breakfast Bend and Rocky Point, and quite similar to both. Currents we rather strong, but we have the luxury of drifting and having the boat pick us up where-ever the tide takes us. I see my first turtle, as well as a lot of surgeonfish and some baracuda.

We move back to Island 8 to moor for the night, and make a night dive – my first – on Beacon Reef. I spot a few lobsters out and about, as well as some parrotfish sleeping in the nooks and crannies of the coral. Later, back on the boat, the lights attract a large school of squid.

The boat has moved from Hin Wong around to Mango Bay, on the north side of Koh Tao. I’ve heard good things about this site, so I’m looking forward to it. Once we’re under the water, I can see why so many people like this site. It’s very large, for one thing, and the landscape of the sea floor is exceptionally varied. There seems to be an infinite variety of corals, from big boulders to barrels to staghorns. There’s lots of fish as well. At one point, I spotted a lone angelfish (I think) whose scales shimmered golden in the light. It seemed almost ghostly in appearance.

As this is a certification dive, I have to do one last exercise: taking the mask completely off, putting it back on and clearing it. There’s one other beginning diver with us, so he goes through his exercises first. As I kneel on the sandy bottom waiting for my turn, I feel a sort of pin-prick on my ear. I shake my head, but soon feel another one. After three or four more, I’m really wondering what’s going on. That’s when I spot a small stripped cleaning fish making its way from me to my dive buddy. It seems that is what is responsible for the pin-pricks: I was getting my ears cleaned. It seems Adam has set us down in the middle of a cleaning station.

Our maximum depth on this dive was 12 meters. Visibility was good, if not great, at 6 to 7 meters.